S2000 Wheel Bearing & Hub Replacement
By Rob Robinette
When I let the dealer replace my right rear bearing and hub I was shocked when the bill went over $500. I decided to buy a shop press and big torque wrench so I could do it myself next time. Well next time happened about 4 months after the first bearing went. Here's how I replaced my left rear wheel bearing and hub. The procedure for the front bearing and hub replacement is slightly different so check out the service manual for details on the front knuckle removal..
Special Tools Needed: Large torque wrench for the 242 lb-feet axle nut, 36mm socket for the axle nut, impact screwdriver to remove the brake disk and ball joint separator. If you don't want to take the knuckle to a shop to have the old bearing and hub pressed out you'll need a hydraulic shop press with press plates and assorted dies..
I got the new hub and bearing from www.hondapartscheap.com for about $190. The new hub came with 5 new lug bolts already installed in the hub. You may be able to find these parts cheaper elsewhere.
You want to loosen the axle nut while the car is still on the ground. Remove the wheel center cap to gain access to the axle nut. Next, remove the dent in the axle nut that locks it in place. A small flat chisel and hammer works well. Loosen the axle nut with an impact driver or a large 1/2 inch breaker bar and 36mm socket.
Slightly loosen the lug nuts, jack up and support the car, and remove the wheel. Remove the ABS sensor (10mm bolt) before you pop the ball joints. Follow this how-to to remove the brake caliper and brake disk and pop the ball joints. You'll have to pop 3 ball joints to remove the knuckle.
Notes on Popping Ball Joints: Put some grease on the ball joint tool's threads and the part that slides under the ball joint grease boot to keep from tearing the boot. Make sure you go under the boot, you don't want to squish it. It takes a crap-load of force to pop the ball joint and you'll probably think you're about to break the tool or the knuckle when it will finally pop. And I mean pop. When the first one goes it'll probably startle you, so be ready for it.
You can also leave the trailing arm ball joint on and unbolt it from the car (leaving it attached to the knuckle) but your alignment will change. By removing all 3 ball joints your alignment won't be affected.
Popping the Ball Joints With a Generic Ball Joint Tool
Save the top ball joint for last. While the knuckle is hanging by just the upper ball joint, begin to push the axle out of the knuckle using a plastic mallet. Pull the knuckle outward a little and knock the axle inward. A large wooden dowel works well to push it all the way out of the knuckle. Don't let the axle fall, use something to support it once you get it out of the knuckle. I used a cardboard box to hold it up.
Knuckle Off and Axle Supported
Most good size auto shops can press out the old bearing and hub and press in the new ones. Your local Honda dealer will do it for you too. I decided to do it myself and bought a 12 ton hydraulic shop press.
Removing the (big-ass) Bearing Retainer Snap Ring
Snap Ring and Snap Ring Pliers
I used a set of Harbor Freight bearing press dies to go between the press's shaft and the bearings. I used a small one for the hub, medium to press out the bearing, and a larger one to press in the new bearing.
Pressing Out the Old Hub
Another View of the Old Hub
The X shaped support plates came with the shop press and worked well for supporting the odd shaped knuckle.
With the hub out the bearing is next. It makes it much easier to set up the knuckle if you remove the brake dust shield. You may need to use an impact screwdriver to remove the shield screws but my three Phillips head screws came out with a standard screwdriver. I did not reinstall my dust shields to increase airflow to the brake disks.
Pressing Out the Bearing
Bearing Coming Out
Bearing Out
With the old bearing out clean the inside of the knuckle with WD-40 to make installation easier. If the old hub is in good condition it can be reused, but usually they are damaged when the bearing goes bad. To re-use the old hub you'll have to use a bearing separator to get the outside bearing race off the hub.
Pressing New Bearing In
Make sure you have the rubber seal side of the new bearing in the up position, then press it into place. Make sure you're pressing the outer ring of the bearing, you'll damage the bearing if you put pressure on its inner race. Position the knuckle so it's as horizontal as possible. You don't want to put a side force on the bearing or hub when you're pressing it in. My X shaped press plates had a nice indention that fit the lower ball joint arm perfectly (see pics). You'll probably have to play around with the knuckle's placement to get it just right.
Bearing Fully Seated
With the bearing fully seated reinstall the snap ring and you're ready to press in the new hub.
Hub Ready to Be Pressed In
Hub Going In
Hub Fully Seated
With the hub installed it's time to reinstall the knuckle. Put a little grease on the axle splines to ease the insertion into the hub. Put a little grease on the angled part of the ball joint shafts. Slide the axle into the hub, then hang the knuckle from the upper ball joint. Don't tighten any of the ball joints until you get all three back in place. Put some motor oil on the face of the axle nut and put it in place but don't tighten yet. Tighten the upper and lower primary ball joints to 43 lb-feet. Torque the rear trailing arm (or front steering arm) ball joint to 40 lb-feet. Install the ABS sensor and torque to 7 lb-feet.
Knuckle & Hub Back in Place
My lower primary ball joint began to spin while I was trying to tighten its nut. I used a c-clamp to put some pressure on it so it wouldn't spin.
Spinning Ball Joint Fix
Knuckle With New Hub In Place
Since I left the brake dust shields off I put some aluminum foil tape around the ball joint boot to keep it from melting from track induced heat soak.
Reinstall the cotter pins on the ball joint castle nuts. You may have to turn the nut a little to make it line up with the bolt hole.
Follow the Brake Caliper & Disk how-to to reinstall them, reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 80 lb-feet.
Lower the car and torque the axle nut to 242 lb-feet and stake the nut (dent the locking collar)
Have a beer and revel in the $300+ savings from doing it yourself.
Rob Robinette